We visited on Momo's second day of business, and arrived to find that they hadn't had yet a chance to put a handle on the front door, leaving us to scrabble frantically like the first Mrs Rochester until we were admitted by an apologetic member of staff. So the time seems right for Momo, a fashionable new spot tucked away in a cul-de-sac off Regent Street near Piccadilly Circus. However, this dish is particularly good when eaten with garlic mayonnaise. The food of the Maghreb - Morocco, Tunisia and Algeria - is something of an unknown quantity in Britain, though it's all the rage in France, where couscous is fast overtaking steak-frites and blanquette de veau as the nation's most popular dish.

As you have already had two fairly rich courses - the soup, followed by the risotto - you should not need anything more than a green salad, if that. Shake off the excess and fry for about 2-3 minutes on each side in a little hot olive oil, in a spacious frying pan. Note: It is quite a good idea to initially press down lightly on the flesh side at the beginning of the cooking process, as this helps the skin to become very crisp. Serve with the plain boiled potatoes, a little extra virgin olive oil spooned over them and the fish, and serve with the lemon wedges. Now season well with salt and pepper and dip the skin side into the flour. Parmesan is never, ever, served with fishy risotti.To cook the gurnard fillets, first lightly slash the skin side with a sharp knife, only just cutting into the flesh (this will help to prevent the fish curling too much when you cook it).

Once you feel the texture and taste is right, stir in the chopped parsley. As I mentioned in the recipe for the asparagus risotto last week, the resultant texture should be sloppy but not soupy. About three-quarters of the way through the making of the risotto, stir in the prawns and tomatoes.Check the texture of the rice as you go along, by eating a bit; it should be cooked through yet firm, but not chalky in the middle. Add the garlic and rice and stir around over a low light until well coated with the oil.