The last time I was at this brasserie, I feasted upon a sublime first course of lip-tacky veal tendons with sauce ravigote (or was it gribiche?) absurdly followed by a large pot of deeply rich, braised tripe with boiled potatoes. The interior is classic brasserie - mirrored, with well-worn-tiles underfoot, the waiters traditionally garbed, unusually helpful and charming (particularly if, like me, you are the occasional Brit who enthuses over extremities and innards) and, unusually, there are also 10 reasonably priced, comfortable rooms to let upstairs.Moissonnier 28 rue Fosses-St-Bernard, Paris 5 (0033 1 43298765) It was to be at this tiny outpost of Lyonnais cooking (with a bit of Jura too) on the Rive Gauche where I was to eat my very first tablier de sapeur, a particular way with tripe. Although fully flummoxed you may be, and scratching your head, wondering quite how such idiosyncratic nomenclature as gastronomic metaphor ever gave rise to the association of a "fireman's apron" with a 20cm square ply of deliciously crusted, fried tripe. Be assured that we would never embarrass ourselves with such flights of whimsical, gastronomic fancy. I guess, however, if pressed to come up with something similar, it might be dishcloth or doormat, so mentally cleansed have we now become over all thoughts of consuming something quite so terrifying as the lining of a large ruminant's stomach. The particular piece that suits the cut of the "fireman's apron" is taken from one of four possible options - stomachs, that is.

Such details are worth knowing.Ironically, it was to be that other fine American gastro-journo, Johnny Apple, who initially directed me here from the pages of his book Apple's Europe, and what I find so reassuring is that both he and Wells enjoy it for all the right reasons. It has long been a constant source of delight to me that, with the exception of Elizabeth David, it was four American food writers who have inspired and influenced me on the joys of eating in Paris - and the rest of France, too - more than any Brit has seen fit to so do. Chronologically, these are Waverley Root, Richard Olney, RW (Johnny) Apple and Patricia Wells Great Americans in Paris. PWLe Duc 243 boulevard Raspail, Paris 14 (0033 1 43209630) Michael Winner recently wrote of how much he disliked this place My first visit was in February 1981. They have not the slightest idea who I am or where I come from, I always eat here alone It is impeccable I sit wherever they put me.

"If you love your fish ultra-fresh, sparingly prepared, and barely cooked, then Le Duc is for you,'' says Wells. I feel sure that Le Duc doesn't spare themselves a second thought that Winner might have chosen to disagree. Mind you, now that I pause to think about it, what a huge relief it must also be to them that he was disappointed. That very first taste of their loup tartare aux coquilles Saint-Jacques, almost 20 years ago now, will forever remain significant in my memory as something altogether daring, intelligently thought-out and, most of all, extraordinarily delicious. PWA few bars and cafésSamaritane roof-top café 2 quai du Louvre, Paris 1 (0033 1 40412929) From this "combination café, restaurant and salon de thé .. you can see tout Paris So, you know what they chose to call it? 'Toupary' Fabulous A wonderful discovery on a hot and sunny day in the city. Visit on a sunny afternoon, order up a citron-pressé or a beer, and relax before or after a visit to this mammoth, and confusing, (superb art-deco) department store.'' PWHarry's New York Bar 5 rue Danou, Paris 2 (0033 1 42617114) (above right) Well known indeed to plenty of Americans but not to many Brits, I reckon.