The gratin dauphinois was so good that I've spent every Sunday since I returned attempting to recreate it in my own kitchen with butter, potatoes and cream. I'll have to be buried in a piano case.There is history woven into the fabric of the city. I was staggered by the number of names on the First World War memorial at the railway station, and then realised it lists just the local railway workers who died The many others are listed elsewhere. A statue commemorates the German invasion of 1870 and the local boys who died in the fighting. It is a history lesson written in stone, an archaeological clue to the roots of the French attitude towards Europe. I will be going back, with my family (if only so they can see what these endless bloody gratins dauphinois are actually meant to taste like). It may be that as a result of this article the place will be thronged with British tourists, but at least since we all read the same paper we will all be like-minded.

And at least your journey home will probably be cheaper than mine.There are plenty of budget flights from Lyon to airports all over the UK these days, but turning up without prior notice and demanding immediate departure continues to bring out the worst in the aviation industry. My one-way ticket to Belfast cost £400.I pointed out to the stewardess that this was practically more than the whole of the rest of my journey including hotels, meals and outbound flight had cost.She was sympathetic."Try and make it up on the free beers and peanuts," she suggested.And so I did.Kevin Connolly is the BBC's Ireland correspondent. The first programme in his series, 'The Last Hitchhiker', begins on BBC Radio 4 at 5.40pm on April 20Traveller's guideA foot-passenger ticket from Dover to Calais on P&O Ferries (08705 20 20 20, ) costs £28. WHY GO NOW? Late spring is a lovely time to see one of France's most historic and colourful cities.

"La Ville Rose" gets its popular name from the small bricks made from local clay used in many of its older buildings. Their colour varies from red to dark pink, according to the metal content, and gives the city a rosy complexion all of its own, especially in gentle sunlight. Today, Toulouse is a centre for aviation, space travel and high-tech business, and has the second largest student population in France, making it a vibrant and cosmopolitan city. BEAM DOWN British Airways (0845 77 333 77; ) has three daily flights from Gatwick to Toulouse (typical return fare: £121), and a Saturday service from Birmingham. Air France (0845 0845 111; ) also flies from Birmingham (£176) and from Heathrow (£155). BMI (0870 60 70 555; ) flies from Manchester to Toulouse (£169), while its subsidiary, bmibaby (0870 264 2229; ), flies from East Midlands (£105) and Cardiff (£70) on Saturdays. FlyBE (08705 676 676, ) flies from Birmingham (£167), and, starting 19 May, from Southampton (£132). There is a shuttle every 20 minutes from the airport to the city centre, with stops at Place Jeanne d'Arc, Jean-Jaur?metro station, and Matabiau railway station A return ticket costs €5.60 (£3.70).

Taxis are more expensive and charge around €19 (£13) during the day and €23 (£15.50) on Sundays, public holidays and at night. Alternatively, take the Eurostar from Waterloo to Lille or Paris (08705 186 186; ), and then change trains and get to Toulouse in under 10 hours; return fares start at £99. GET YOUR BEARINGS The city centre is framed by the Canal du Midi to the north and east, and the big boulevards to the south and west. The most prominent geographical feature is the river Garonne, but the heart of the city is the Place du Capitole – or "Place du Cap", as the locals call it. Just behind it, in the Square Charles-de-Gaulle, is the tourist office (00 33 5 61 11 02 22; ); it is open 9am-6pm, Monday to Saturday (with a 12.30-2pm break on Saturdays), and 10am-12.30pm and 2-5pm on Sundays.