More about this later. I have always been a keenly frugal cook. The only other main ingredient that came into play was a packet of whole prawns that I already had in the freezer, some rice and a few potatoes. But I surprised even myself with the resultant three fish courses that, in essence, came about from using these four beautiful gurnard. Look over there! Isn't that Jade Jagger?Solange Azagury-Partridge, 171 Westbourne Grove, London W11 (0171-792 0197)Dylan Jones is the group editor of Wagadon, which publishes `The Face' and `Arena'. I had already begun to work out what I was going to do with it as I wended my way home.

I had been planning to do a fishy sort of dinner for friends, anyway, as some of them did not eat meat. Not that there was anything wrong with the other fish, it's just that the gurnard was some of the best and freshest I had ever seen, cheaper, too (mainly because nobody knows what to do with it, or thinks it is only good for soup). When I saw the box of rosy red and glistening gurnard at the fishmonger, I instantly put away any thoughts of the cod and turbot that had previously caught my eye. Cash has been dispensed, cards swiped, armchairs haggled overAs thoughts turn to Long Island Iced Teas and dinner reservations at Kassoulet, the locals beat a hasty retreat. And fashion editors by the gross.A closed door confronts them all - locked for insurance purposes as much as anything else. "I rarely let people in if I'm on my own, and I almost never let two men in," she explains.

"It's strange, but the minute the door is open a lovely, smelly old tramp always appears from nowhere. He's quite sweet, really."Outside, on Westbourne Grove, the weary Scandinavian tourists and the COAL-diggers (Concealers of Advantaged Lineage, Tatler records) stroll, oblivious, along the world's most fashionable street. The day is almost gone, and there is a sense of accomplishment in the air. It was very funny."Colette once wrote that artistic jewellery can wreck a woman's reputation, but Solange's customers are the kind of women whose reputations precede them: Isabel Goldsmith, Janet Street Porter, Dawn French, Mrs Richard Branson, Fiona Thyssen, Mrs David Bailey, Francesca Von Hapsburg, Mrs Rocco Forte, Lucy Ferry, Elle MacPherson, Naomi Campbell, Madonna. My assistant and I would be lolling around on the sofa drinking cups of tea, and at that stage there was nothing outside the shop indicating that we sold jewellery, so obviously some people got the wrong end of the stick, so to speak. Two years ago came the shop.Many of her new neighbours thought it was a brothel at first. "I kept getting phone calls from men wanting appointments, and it took me a week to work out what they wanted.