Contemporary Art Centre.The exhibition will be spread between the two museums. Moma itself has been temporarily re-housed in Long Island City, Queens, while the old building is renovated. On display will be a comprehensive collection of Roth's introspective drawings, his writing from the late 1940s, paintings, sculpture, installations and an impressive display of 128 videos depicting Roth's life. The exhibition is open daily, except Tuesdays, from 11am-7pm and from 11am-9pm on Fridays. Fish is also an obvious choice, such as Arctic char.GETTING AROUNDFeeling adventurous? Athabasca Fishing Lodges (001 306 653 5490, /athabasca) rents canoes, paddles, life jackets and ropes for use on the Lake for around C$200 (£80) per week.If you are not quite as brave, The Great Canadian Adventure Company (001 780 414 1676, ) offers custom-made guided canoe trips around the Lake Athabasca area from May-September, starting in Saskatoon. Along with the work of Caravaggio, his realistic style greatly influenced modern painting.

FRANCE FRANCE Rubens at the Palais des Beaux Arts, Lille, 6 March-14 JuneLille, one of this year's European Capitals of Culture, is staging a number of cultural events in the coming months including this major retrospective of the works of the Flemish Baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens (1577-1640) at the Palais des Beaux Arts.Among the works on display will be paintings produced for the churches and convents of Lille, as well as sketches and tapestries. From there you will be transported by plane to Stony Rapids, on the eastern side of Lake Athabasca where you stay in a lodge overnight. For comfort, the Fort Chipewyan Lodge (001 780 697 3679, ) has rooms overlooking Lake Athabasca. Double rooms start at C$126 (£50) per night with a C$10 (£4) supplement for each additional person, room only.EATING & DRINKINGLake Athabasca is home to the Athabasca Chipewyan First Nations people, so try some Native Indian foods, such as venison and buffalo meat. The canoe trip takes in the Williams River, the Athabasca Sand Dunes and Lake Athabasca.RESOURCESTourism Saskatchewan (001 877 237 2273, ) Saskatchewan Environment and Resource Management (001 306 787 2700, )Parks Canada (001 888 773 8888, )INDEPENDENT INDEXPrice of a stamp for a postcard home: C$1.40 (£0.55)Price of a cup of coffee: C$1.50 (£0.60)Sophie Lam. However, you can find reasonable accommodation in the town of Fort Chipewyan, on the shore of Lake Athabasca in Alberta. There is space for camping in the Wood Buffalo National Park such as at Pine Lake Campground (001 867 872 7960, ), which costs C$13 (£5) per pitch per night.

We'd had enough of an adventure for one day.TRAVELLER'S GUIDEGETTING THEREThe main gateway to the trickier parts of north-west Canada is Calgary, served by Air Canada from Heathrow and, in summer, from Gatwick by charters and other low-cost carriers.STAYING THERENorthern Saskatchewan is largely uninhabited. I looked like someone poking a fire to find his lost baked potato. When Barney woke up, he was sad he hadn't seen a bear, except of course in the way he had seen bears before: on television. We packed up camp in nine minutes - a record we were never able to match later. We paddled up river and camped on a sand island with nothing for bears to hide behind. The bear crashed to the edge of the willows, less than 10 yards from us, and then stopped. What now? I pressed the bear-horn, but it only gave a feeble poop I'd squandered all my air.